Swiss vs. Japanese Watches: From Geneva to Tokyo

When looking for a new watch, you may be faced with a difficult choice: “A Swiss or a Japanese watch?”. Many people (quite rightly) wonder which of the two is better... Both countries have an impressive watchmaking tradition, but completely different approaches. Swiss craftsmanship or Japanese technology? Classic elegance or functional innovation? In this blog, we will delve deeper into the history of both watch industries and list the most important features and differences, so that you will soon be able to make a well-considered choice.

A rich history

Switzerland is known as the birthplace of watches, where the watch industry originated in Geneva in the 16th century. Here, watchmaking grew into a respected art form. In the centuries that followed, Switzerland developed into the world centre of mechanical timepieces, where luxury, craftsmanship and watchmaking came together. Over the years, this has resulted in iconic brands such as Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Breitling and Omega

On the other side of the world, Japanese watchmaking history really began in the 19th century. In 1881, the company that would later become Seiko was founded in Tokyo. Japan opted for its own approach: focusing on innovation, mass production and technological innovation. In 1969, Seiko introduced the first quartz watch ever: the Seiko Quartz Astron. This led to the so called quartz-crisis, in which the Swiss brands suddenly lost their technological lead. Japan later went even further with the digital watches from Casio, suddenly Switzerland was no longer the main player. 

That’s why Switzerland struck back at the end of the last century with a clever change of course. The brand Swatch (which literally means second watch) gave a new twist to the Swiss watchmaking tradition, with their strikingly colorful and affordable plastic quartz watches. In this way, the Swiss industry overcame the quartz-crisis and, with the Swatch Group as market leader, regained a large part of its position of power in the watch world. In the meantime, Japanese watch brands did not sit still and started to focus more and more on luxury, with brands such as Grand Seiko, Credor and G-Shock MR-G.

The Comparison: Tradition vs. Innovation

Both Swiss and Japanese watches are highly respected by watch enthusiasts worldwide. Although both industries have grown closer together over the years, there are clear differences in their original philosophy, technology, finish, price and target audience:

The philosophy behind the watch

Based on Swiss philosophy, Swiss watchmakers have focused for centuries on creating watches as art objects. It is not just about telling the time, but about telling a story; an heirloom that lasts for generations. Many timepieces are still completely assembled by hand. In contrast, fully automated Japanese watchmakers focus more on functionality and precision. Their philosophy revolves around ease of use, technological innovation and sustainability. Take Seiko's motto for example: "Always one step ahead of the rest."

Application of technology

One of the biggest differences between the two lies in the approach and application of technological possibilities. The previously mentioned quartz-revolution was fueled in the 1970s by the Japanese drive for innovation. Where the Swiss were initially more reserved and stuck to traditional techniques, which ultimately led to a deep crisis in the Swiss watch industry. However, this vision has been adjusted over the years (partly due to increasing pressure from Japan), think for example of the Swatch brand and the T-Touch watches from Tissot. Nevertheless, Japan continues to maintain its technological lead, with brands such as Seiko, Citizen and Casio, which are leading in hybrid movements, use solar energy and have radio or GPS-controlled time indication.

Where Japan takes the lead in technological development, the Swiss brands generally continue to use traditional techniques. The Swiss master this like no other and are unmatched in their mechanical movements, which consist of handmade calibers with beautiful finishes such as Côtes de Genève and perlage. Something you don't come across in Japanese movements very often, unless you look in the higher segment.

Design

Swiss watches excel like no other in detail and luxury. For example, valuable materials are often used for the case and dial. The term "Swiss Made” is therefore a term that many people associate with high quality and durable timepieces. In Japan, the emphasis is more on a functional design. The finish is sleek, but without the decorative flair that is typical of Swiss watches. This makes Japanese watches generally more user-friendly and practical to wear, while Swiss watches are worn more as valuable possessions.

Price and target group

Originally, Swiss watches belong to the premium to ultra-luxury segment, with prices that easily run into tens of thousands of pounds. However, this has changed a lot in the last century, with more affordable brands such as Swatch, Mondaine and Jacques du Manoir. Japan, on the other hand, has gone in exactly the opposite direction. For example, Japanese watches were launched on the market at the time as affordable watches with a strong focus on price-quality ratio, which should appeal to a broad target group. They have slowly expanded this target group over the course of the 20th century with previously mentioned brands such as Grand Seiko, Credor and G-Shock MR-G, which should appeal more to the luxury segment. This development in both industries has made it possible that you can now get both an affordable Swiss watch and a luxury Japanese watch.