Gold Watches

The vast majority of gold watches offered by Watch.co.uk are gold-toned, meaning they are made of metal and feature a gold-colored PVD coating. A relatively small selection of (pocket) watches is gold-plated (featuring a thin layer of real gold) or made entirely or partially of real gold or rose gold. In such cases, this is always specifically stated for the watch in question.

The Origins of (Real) Gold Watches

The history of the gold watch began between the 16th and 18th centuries with the advent of the very first portable timepieces. A famous example is the so-called "Nuremberg Egg," which first appeared around 1505. Because these early timepieces were extremely complex and costly to produce, they were made exclusively for the highest echelons of the nobility. At the time, gold was prized not only for its regal appearance but also for its practical advantages. The precious metal was used for watch cases, hands, and delicate internal gears alike, as it is resistant to moisture and oxidation. However, pure gold is very soft. The watch industry soon switched to 18-karat (75% gold) or 14-karat (58.5% gold) alloys, mixed with copper and silver for added durability.

The Industrial Revolution of the 19th century transformed the world, and with it, the art of watchmaking. During this period, the pocket watch evolved into a status symbol for the rising Elite. Royal families, wealthy industrialists, and affluent citizens sought to display their success to the world. They commissioned lavishly engraved, solid gold timepieces—worn proudly on a chain in a waistcoat pocket—while the common man had to make do with a metal pocket watch. This disparity led to the 1896 introduction of Ingersoll’s legendary "Dollar Watch" (named for the average worker's daily wage of $1).

From the First World War onwards, the watch definitively shifted from the pocket to the wrist. Renowned brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe recognized the potential of this new design and elevated gold to the standard for exclusive dress watches.

The development of alternatives to solid gold Since solid gold was unaffordable for the average citizen for centuries, watchmakers constantly sought innovative ways to give cheaper base metals—such as brass or steel—a gold appearance. The earliest method, used from the 16th to the 19th century, was fire-gilding. This was a highly dangerous technique in which a mixture of gold and toxic mercury was fired onto brass; the heat caused the mercury to evaporate, leaving behind a thin layer of gold. Around 1850, the Industrial Revolution brought a safer and more durable solution with the introduction of "Rolled Gold" or "Gold Filled." This technique involved mechanically rolling a relatively thick sheet of real gold onto a brass base. The result was a gold layer that remained beautiful for decades without wearing off, finally giving the general public access to this luxury. In the 20th century, the market shifted again with the rise of electrolytic gilding (electroplating). Watch cases made of steel or brass were coated with a wafer-thin layer of real gold—often between 5 and 20 microns thick—in a chemical bath using electricity. While this enabled mass, low-cost production, it had a major drawback: with intensive daily use, the wafer-thin gold layer would eventually wear away, exposing the underlying grey steel or yellow brass.
To permanently solve this wear issue, the watch industry switched to Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) at the end of the 20th century. This type of coating is now the standard for watches; instead of using a liquid gold bath, the process takes place inside a vacuum chamber. Using plasma, a super-strong, gold-colored titanium nitride coating is applied that fuses at the molecular level with the underlying steel. This top layer is virtually wear-resistant, allowing modern gold- and rosegold watches to retain their luster without the price tag of real gold, which is prone to wear.

Various types of gold watches

Every self-respecting watch brand includes various gold-colored watches in its collection. Consequently, gold watches are available in a wide range of styles; from the minimalist designs of Bering to the Art Deco aesthetic of Balmain, and from the classic look of Frederique Constant to the sporty style of Casio. Our collection also features gold smartwatches, such as those from Ice-Watch or Samsung. In short, there is a gold watch for everyone, men and women, young and old alike. While a gold watch truly stands out when paired with a casual outfit, it also complements a well-tailored suit perfectly for occasions like weddings or formal dinners. The color is versatile, adding that extra touch of distinction to any style.

Gold watches for men and women

Our collection features a wider range of gold watches for women than for men. Women traditionally wear gold jewelry, such as rings, bracelets, and necklaces, more frequently and in greater variety. Consequently, a gold watch complements other accessories seamlessly and is viewed as an extension of one’s jewelry collection; this is clearly evident in for example, the Cluse collection . In addition, women's gold watches often feature mother-of-pearl dials or embellishments like crystals and diamonds. The metal bracelets on women's watches frequently have a style reminiscent of jewelry bracelets, seen, for instance, in collections from Joalia, Daniel Wellington, and Fossil. For men, a gold watch is generally either a traditional "dress watch" (such as those from Tissot) or a timepiece with a youthful, sporty aesthetic (like those from Tommy Hilfiger). The main difference between gold watches for women and men is the size. Women's watches generally do not exceed 39 mm, whereas men's watches can reach up to 60 mm, as seen in collections from brands like Diesel and Police.

Popular choices

The most popular gold-tone watches at Watch.co.uk are those from the Casio Vintage A168 series and the gold-tone steel MTP-130 series featuring a coin-edge bezel. Additionally, the gold-tone models from Tissot’s PRX collection are highly sought-after, and Danish Design’s Akilia watches are also among the bestsellers. Square and rectangular models from Cluse are popular with women, while a gold-toned Seiko 5 ranks high on men's wish lists.

How much does a gold watch cost?

At Watch.co.uk, a watch with a solid gold case (18K) and a leather strap starts at approximately €2,500. A simple gold-plated watch (or pocket watch) is priced from around €280. Watches with a gold-tone PVD coating are available across all price ranges, starting at about €40 and going up to around €2,000.

Frequently asked questions about gold watches

Are gold Seiko watches made of real gold?

Until the 1990s, Seiko produced gold-plated watches featuring a thin layer of real gold; however, most gold-toned Seiko watches today are made of PVD-coated stainless steel. Solid gold Seiko watches are rare and generally only available in the high-end Grand Seiko line or as vintage models.

How can you recognize a real gold watch?

When looking to purchase a real gold watch, check for hallmarks (such as 14K or 18K) stamped on the case or case back. For watches with a thin layer of real gold, look for designations like GF (Gold Filled) or RGP (Rolled Gold Plate).

Is a gold watch considered tacky?

A gold watch certainly doesn't have to look tacky. It only takes on a flashy or ostentatious appearance if the case is oversized or overloaded with diamonds and crystals. For a stylish look, opt for a minimalist design with a subtle color scheme that complements your personal style. An excellent way to instantly give the watch a more sophisticated look is to pair a gold case with a black or brown leather strap.

Are gold watches still in fashion?

Gold watches are definitely not out of style. In fact, they are making a major comeback unlike rose gold, which is currently much less sought-after than it was a few years ago. Gold pairs well with current fashion and color trends and offers a timeless, luxurious appeal that is appreciated by both modern designers and vintage enthusiasts.